Pucci's Capri-aimed printed silk and Loro Piana cashmere as the two ends of LVMH's small-brand revival playbook 2020-2026

LVMH Small Brand Revivals: Pucci to Loro Piana

When LVMH put Camille Miceli into the artistic director seat at Pucci on 1 September 2021, three months after taking the house to 100% ownership, it ignored the conventional luxury wisdom about reviving a small brand: the appointment was a twenty-four-year accessories insider — Chanel PR, Louis Vuitton costume jewellery, Dior fine jewellery, Vuitton accessories — for a Florentine house no celebrity creative director had managed to fix in two decades. That single hire is the cleanest single-line statement of the lvmh small brand revivals playbook between 2020 and 2026: at the level of Pucci, Loro Piana, Nina Ricci, Berluti and the long Fendi-second-line, the group does not buy outside celebrity; it promotes from within, often from the accessories or operating side, on the bet that someone who already knows the machine will outrun anyone who has to learn it. ...

June 13, 2026 · 13 min · 2583 words · FORMA Editorial
Daniel Lee's Burberry Cap d'Antibes residency at the Art Deco Hôtel Belles Rives, Juan-les-Pins, May-September 2026

Fashion Hotel Takeovers 2026: Burberry at Belles Rives

On 14 May 2026 the navy Burberry check went up on the sun loungers, parasols and deck chairs of the Hôtel Belles Rives in Juan-les-Pins, signage reading “Burberry Cap d’Antibes” screwed to the jetty, and the fashion hotel takeovers 2026 calendar acquired its loudest summer chapter. Daniel Lee, chief creative officer at Burberry since September 2022, is the named author; the Estène-Chauvin family, who have run the 43-room Art Deco hotel since Boma and Simone Estène bought Villa Saint-Louis in 1929 and opened it as Hôtel Belles Rives in 1930, are the hosts. The residency runs to 30 September 2026 and arrives in a year already crowded with houses moving into hospitality real estate: Loro Piana’s Casa Brera in Milan, Tom Dixon’s Mua Mua at Mulino Estate, Hermès at Capella Kyoto, and the Chanel Cruise show at Casino Municipal de Biarritz. The pattern is not a coincidence. ...

May 14, 2026 · 15 min · 3025 words · FORMA Editorial
Loro Piana's Casa Brera townhouse on Via Solferino 11, Milan, the four-floor cultural address that anchors Frédéric Arnault's first year as CEO

Frédéric Arnault and Loro Piana's First Year

When Frédéric Arnault walked into Loro Piana on 1 June 2025, he inherited a 101-year-old cashmere house that had — three months earlier — already committed to opening a four-floor 19th-century townhouse on Via Solferino in Milan as its cultural and commercial centre of gravity. The appointment was announced on 13 March 2025; the maison he took over was no longer the discreet Quarona-born fibre supplier his father Bernard Arnault had bought a controlling stake in for roughly $2.6 billion in July 2013. Under Damien Bertrand’s four years as CEO and Antoine Arnault’s continuing chairmanship, Loro Piana had been pushed — quietly, methodically — out of the wool sheds and into the rooms where furniture, ceramics and curated mid-century objects sit alongside double-ply cashmere. By the time Casa Brera opened during Milan Design Week 2026, the question facing the youngest of LVMH’s heirs was no longer whether Loro Piana could become a fashion-into-design house. It was whether a 31-year-old engineer who had run watches for five years could hold that pivot together while his father’s group posted a -2% organic quarter in Fashion & Leather Goods. ...

May 5, 2026 · 16 min · 3248 words · FORMA Editorial
Loro Piana Casa Brera Milan opening

Loro Piana Opens Casa Brera: A House That Refuses to Be a Showroom

The fashion-house residence has become a Milanese typology over the past decade, and most examples of it have been unconvincing. The format — a brand-owned palazzo, presented as a “home” rather than a retail space, with furniture, art, and accessories arranged as if for inhabitation — is fundamentally honest about what it is, which is a marketing exercise. The dishonesty creeps in when the staging is so theatrical that no one could plausibly live there. Sofas are aligned with the precision of a window display. Books are stacked by spine colour. The kitchen, if there is one, has clearly never produced a meal. The visitor is invited to imagine a life that the space itself rules out. ...

April 22, 2026 · 11 min · 2321 words · FORMA Editorial

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