Pucci's Capri-aimed printed silk and Loro Piana cashmere as the two ends of LVMH's small-brand revival playbook 2020-2026

LVMH Small Brand Revivals: Pucci to Loro Piana

When LVMH put Camille Miceli into the artistic director seat at Pucci on 1 September 2021, three months after taking the house to 100% ownership, it ignored the conventional luxury wisdom about reviving a small brand: the appointment was a twenty-four-year accessories insider — Chanel PR, Louis Vuitton costume jewellery, Dior fine jewellery, Vuitton accessories — for a Florentine house no celebrity creative director had managed to fix in two decades. That single hire is the cleanest single-line statement of the lvmh small brand revivals playbook between 2020 and 2026: at the level of Pucci, Loro Piana, Nina Ricci, Berluti and the long Fendi-second-line, the group does not buy outside celebrity; it promotes from within, often from the accessories or operating side, on the bet that someone who already knows the machine will outrun anyone who has to learn it. ...

June 13, 2026 · 13 min · 2583 words · FORMA Editorial
Place Vendôme jewellery talent transfers between Cartier, Chanel, Boucheron, Bulgari and Tiffany, 2010-2026

Place Vendôme Jewellery Talent, 2010–2026

Marie-Laure Cérède spent twenty-five years moving between Cartier, Harry Winston and Cartier again before Chanel announced on 9 June 2026 that she would lead its jewellery creation studio from October — the latest beat in a generation-long pattern of place vendôme jewellery talent circulating between five or six addresses. Her appointment at Chanel Joaillerie is not a hire from outside the square. It is a transfer within it: a designer trained in the workshops above 13 Rue de la Paix, seasoned at a New York house owned by Swatch Group, then returned to Cartier for a decade, now crossing the Rue de Castiglione to 18 Place Vendôme. The Place Vendôme jewellery talent market is small — a few dozen specialists in total — and the same names keep reappearing in different windows along the arcade. ...

June 13, 2026 · 12 min · 2365 words · FORMA Editorial
Obama Presidential Center museum tower in Jackson Park, Chicago, designed by Tod Williams Billie Tsien Architects, opening Juneteenth 2026

Tod Williams Billie Tsien Architecture, 1986-2026

When the Obama Presidential Center dedicates its 19.3-acre campus at 6001 S. Stony Island Avenue on 18 June 2026 and opens to the public on Juneteenth, it will be the largest civic commission Tod Williams Billie Tsien Architects have completed in forty years of practice — and only the sixth public-campus building they will have placed on a site they did not previously own as architects of record. The shape of the answer to “how did a small Manhattan firm best known for the demolished American Folk Art Museum end up designing a presidential museum on Chicago’s South Side?” is a forty-year arc that runs through La Jolla, Manhattan, Hong Kong, Philadelphia, Princeton and Lincoln Center, and that builds tod williams billie tsien architecture one small civic building at a time. This piece walks that arc in order. ...

June 13, 2026 · 14 min · 2791 words · FORMA Editorial
Obama Presidential Center on Chicago's South Side, designed by Tod Williams Billie Tsien Architects (2026)

Chicago South Side Cultural Patronage, 2015-2026

The Obama Presidential Center opens to the public on Juneteenth 2026 at 6001 S Stony Island Avenue, eleven years and seven blocks north of the 1923 bank at 6760 S Stony Island that Theaster Gates restored in 2015 as the inaugural Chicago Architecture Biennial venue. Read together, those two addresses sketch the spine of a sustained Chicago South Side cultural patronage campaign that runs along a single avenue and binds an artist-led nonprofit, a presidential foundation and a New York architecture studio into one continuous urban project. The shape of the answer to “what happened on the South Side between 2015 and 2026?” is not a list of buildings. It is a corridor. ...

June 12, 2026 · 16 min · 3257 words · FORMA Editorial
Christopher Bailey's Burleigh acquisition at Middleport Pottery, Stoke-on-Trent — the latest fashion-to-craft pivot

Fashion Designers Buying Craft Houses, 2010-2026

On 9 June 2026, Christopher Bailey — the British designer who ran Burberry’s creative direction for most of the 21st century — joined a small investor group to acquire Burleigh, the 175-year-old Stoke-on-Trent pottery, from administrators. It is the latest entry in a pattern that has hardened over the last decade: fashion designers craft house acquisitions, and the adjacent moves of founding craft prizes, launching scarcity-led brands, and seeding craft foundations, have become the most legible exit path for senior creative directors leaving the runway treadmill. The line runs from Jonathan Anderson’s 2016 Loewe Craft Prize through Phoebe Philo’s October 2023 brand launch, Tilda Swinton’s Hawick-made Hades collaboration, the December 2025 announcement of the Fondazione Dries Van Noten, and now Bailey at Burleigh’s tissue-transfer kilns in Burslem. ...

June 12, 2026 · 14 min · 2848 words · FORMA Editorial
Luca de Meo, Kering Group CEO since September 2025, reshuffling the group's house leadership

Kering House CEOs Under De Meo, 2024-2026

The Kering house CEOs de Meo has personally installed since he took office on 15 September 2025 number exactly three: Francesca Bellettini at Gucci on 17 September 2025, Jean-Marc Duplaix at the newly created Kering Jewelry division in March 2026, and Gianfranco D’Attis at Alexander McQueen on 1 June 2026, effective 3 June. Four further house-level appointments — Stefano Cantino to Gucci, Cédric Charbit to Saint Laurent, Gianfranco Gianangeli to Balenciaga, Federico Arrigoni to Brioni — predate him and belong to the final months of François-Henri Pinault’s solo authority over the group. One seat, Bottega Veneta, remains open as of 12 June 2026. The chronology, read together, is the clearest single document we have of how Luca de Meo intends to run Kering: through a small number of decisive, internally-promoted moves at the houses that matter most to the group’s revenue, and a willingness to leave the others uncovered until he has the right person rather than the available one. ...

June 12, 2026 · 13 min · 2648 words · FORMA Editorial
OMA fashion retail architecture from Prada Epicenter SoHo (2001) to Beymen Tersane Istanbul (2026)

OMA Fashion Retail Architecture, 2001-2026

Twenty-five years separate the zebrano wave ramp that Rem Koolhaas and Ole Scheeren dropped into the former Guggenheim SoHo at 575 Broadway on 15 December 2001 from the 12,000 sqm Beymen flagship that Ellen van Loon and Iyad Alsaka have just slipped beneath the cast-iron columns of the Tersane-i Amire on the Golden Horn. Between those two openings sits a more or less continuous practice — OMA fashion retail architecture, plus the parallel AMO research studio directed by Samir Bantal — that has built the most recognisable luxury store typologies of the early 21st century. The Prada Epicenters defined the category in 2001 and 2004. The Repossi flagship at 6 Place Vendôme opened OMA’s jewellery vocabulary in 2016. T Fondaco dei Tedeschi reframed adaptive reuse for luxury retail the same year. Sotheby’s New York rewired the auction house typology in 2019. And, in 2026, the Beymen Tersane plants the practice on Turkish soil for the first time. ...

June 12, 2026 · 17 min · 3436 words · FORMA Editorial
Vitra Bascule lounge chair by Studio Œ at 3 Days of Design Copenhagen 2026 — 30 years after the Meda chair

Vitra Lounge & Soft Seating, 1996-2026

Thirty years separate Alberto Meda’s 1996 Meda chair from the Bascule lounge chair that Studio Œ unveiled at Vitra’s Nordhavn showroom this week. Read in sequence, Vitra lounge soft seating chairs trace a single arc: from the soft-net ergonomic engineering Meda imported into the office in the mid-1990s to the recyclable V-Foam upholstery Lisa Ertel and Anne-Sophie Oberkrome wrapped around Bascule like a loosely tailored jacket. In between sit Antonio Citterio’s ID Chair Concept of 2010, Konstantin Grcic’s pendulum-suspended Citizen of 2020, Panter & Tourron’s disassemblable Anagram sofa of 2024, and Stephan Hurlemann’s Reset chair from Salone this April. Six projects, six designers, one consistent question: how soft should a working chair be, and what should it be made of? ...

June 12, 2026 · 14 min · 2923 words · FORMA Editorial
Tadao Ando's concrete rotunda inside the Bourse de Commerce — Pinault Collection, where Fujiko Nakaya installs her 2026 fog sculpture Cloud #07156

Bourse de Commerce installations: Nakaya's fog, 2026

Fujiko Nakaya’s Cloud #07156 is the first work in the Bourse de Commerce installations sequence to delete Tadao Ando’s concrete rotunda instead of standing inside it. The 93-year-old Sapporo-born artist switched on her high-pressure pump nebulization system inside the Pinault Collection’s Parisian rotunda on 4 June 2026; the fog runs through 14 September 2026 as the centrepiece of the Clair-obscur programme at the Bourse de Commerce. Every other rotunda commission since 22 May 2021 — Urs Fischer’s burning wax Sabines, Anri Sala’s nocturnal sound piece, Danh Vo’s Before the Storm, Philippe Parreno’s permanent Medici-column light sequence — has answered Ando’s 29-metre-wide concrete cylinder by occupying it. Nakaya answers it by erasing it. ...

June 11, 2026 · 13 min · 2621 words · FORMA Editorial
Christian Dell's Kaiser Idell Luxus desk lamp, reissued by Fritz Hansen in a burgundy edition with a Technics SL-40CBT turntable for 3 Days of Design Copenhagen 2026

Fritz Hansen's Bauhaus: Kaiser Idell × Technics 2026

In June 2026, Fritz Hansen will issue a deep-burgundy edition of the Kaiser Idell Luxus 6631-T desk lamp in 200 units, paired with a matching Technics SL-40CBT direct-drive turntable in up to 300 units, previewed at 3 Days of Design 2026 in Copenhagen — and the headline is not the colour. The headline is that a 1872 Danish carpentry firm has become, by way of a series of catalogue acquisitions, one of the most consequential publishers of Bauhaus design objects working today. The Fritz Hansen Bauhaus catalogue runs from Christian Dell’s 1936 desk lamp to Arne Jacobsen’s 1952 Ant and 1955 Series 7, with the Technics 6631-T as its 2026 punctuation mark, and it is now the through-line that the company has chosen to make legible. ...

June 11, 2026 · 14 min · 2915 words · FORMA Editorial
Carven's creative direction lineage from founder Marie-Louise Carven (1945) through Guillaume Henry, Serge Ruffieux, Louise Trotter, Mark Thomas, to Kai Nesselrath's June 2026 appointment as design director under ICCF Group

Carven Creative Directors: From Founder to Nesselrath

Kai Nesselrath is the eleventh designer to control Carven’s studio since Marie-Louise opened the house at the Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées in 1945 — and the first hired since Kering took a minority stake in ICCF Group two months earlier. The 8 June 2026 announcement, which arrived through Business of Fashion the morning after the Trooping the Colour and three weeks before the Paris haute couture week, gave Nesselrath until October 2026 to deliver a Spring 2027 ready-to-wear collection inside a house that had run through five creative directors and one founder in the eight years since its 2018 bankruptcy. The list of Carven creative directors, read end-to-end from Marie-Louise Carven in 1945 to Kai Nesselrath in 2026, is the most discontinuous lineage in any surviving Paris house of comparable vintage. It is also, since the ICCF Group’s 2020 constitution and Kering’s April 2026 stake, the lineage most actively being rewritten in public. ...

June 10, 2026 · 14 min · 2844 words · FORMA Editorial
Fashion houses publishing books in 2026 — Dior's Book Cover Collection, Miu Miu Literary Club, Louis Vuitton Fashion Eye, Saint Laurent Babylone, Coach Explore Your Story, Prada Ten Protagonists by Ottessa Moshfegh

Fashion Houses Publishing Books: A 2026 Atlas

Jonathan Anderson opened his Dior on 2 January 2026 with a Book Tote embroidered as a 1955 first edition of Bram Stoker’s Dracula — and that Book Tote, retailing at $3,550, is the most expensive single position in a market that the world’s twenty largest fashion houses are now actively publishing books to claim. The trigger for the dossier is Business of Fashion’s 1 June 2026 piece “How Books Became Fashion’s Favourite Flex”, which read Coach’s March 2026 ‘Explore Your Story’ campaign with Elle Fanning and the Dior Book Cover Collection as the same gesture. They are. They are also the smallest, most visible tip of a register that has been building since at least 1973, when Hermès printed the first German-language Die Welt von Hermès. This piece is an atlas of seventeen-plus programmes by the fashion houses publishing books in 2026, organised by what each programme is for. ...

June 10, 2026 · 18 min · 3822 words · FORMA Editorial
Lineage of architect-designed task chairs from Ergon (1976) and Meda Chair (1996) through Aeron (1994) to Foster + Partners' Muku for Okamura (June 2026)

Architect-Designed Task Chairs, 1976-2026

The half-century of architect-designed task chairs runs on a single commercial premise: that a named author — usually trained as an architect or an engineer, occasionally as both — can move an ergonomic office chair from the procurement page into the design press. The lineage begins on 1 January 1976, when Herman Miller shipped Bill Stumpf’s Ergon, the first mass-market task chair marketed on the basis of medical research. It closes, for the moment, in June 2026, when Foster + Partners premiered the Muku for the Japanese manufacturer Okamura — fifty years and four months later, an architect’s office attaching its signature to a recycled-aluminium structure with a mesh upholstery woven from discarded fishing nets. Between those two endpoints, the architect-designed task chair has been the most reliable category in office furniture by which a manufacturer purchases legitimacy. This piece catalogues every named-author chair in that window: nine principal projects, four manufacturers, eight credited designers, and one consistent commercial argument. ...

June 9, 2026 · 13 min · 2709 words · FORMA Editorial
Prada partnerships outside fashion, from Fondazione Prada at Largo Isarco in Milan to the Axiom Space AxEMU lunar spacesuit for NASA's Artemis IV mission

Prada Partnerships: From Fondazione to NASA

On 8 June 2026, Axiom Space and Prada unveiled the Liquid Cooling and Ventilation Garment — a form-fitting inner layer with a fully redundant water-cooling circuit — designed to sit beneath the AxEMU spacesuit on NASA’s Artemis IV mission, planned for 2028. It is the second deliverable from a partnership announced on 4 October 2023, and it is also the cleanest data point yet for a thesis FORMA has been tracking since the Fondazione Prada opened at Largo Isarco in May 2015: that Prada partnerships outside fashion are not marketing adjacencies. They are how the house has, for thirty-three years, built brand equity that runners-up in the luxury sector have not been able to assemble. ...

June 9, 2026 · 13 min · 2699 words · FORMA Editorial
Saint Laurent design studio as a creative-director pipeline, from Hedi Slimane and Stefano Pilati under Tom Ford through Anthony Vaccarello's decade to Kai Nesselrath's June 2026 appointment at Carven

Saint Laurent Studio Alumni: Slimane to Nesselrath

On 4 June 2026, Carven confirmed that Kai Nesselrath — Polimoda graduate, Italian-of-German-descent, and for nearly a decade the womenswear head designer inside Anthony Vaccarello’s studio at Saint Laurent — would become the house’s new design director, succeeding Mark Thomas, who exited in April. His debut runway is set for Paris Fashion Week SS27 in October. The appointment is the latest, and one of the most legible, entries in a register that has run almost without interruption since 1996: the list of Saint Laurent studio alumni who left the avenue Marceau and avenue George V ateliers to take creative-director or design-director chairs elsewhere in luxury. Read end-to-end, that register reads less like a series of one-off exits and more like a farm system — an in-house finishing school that, for thirty years, has produced more chiefs than any other ready-to-wear studio in Paris. ...

June 9, 2026 · 14 min · 2953 words · FORMA Editorial
Industrial Facility's Sam Hecht and Kim Colin named Herman Miller creative directors in June 2026 as Andi Owen exits MillerKnoll

Herman Miller Creative Directors, 1947–2026

Sam Hecht and Kim Colin of London’s Industrial Facility were named Herman Miller creative directors on 4 June 2026 — the first holders of that title in the company’s 121-year history, ending a 54-year gap since George Nelson stood down as director of design at Herman Miller in 1972. The appointment was disclosed the same week MillerKnoll chief executive Andi Owen confirmed her 30 June retirement after eight years, and it answers — for the first time since the Eames Office — the question this piece sets out to map: who, in any given era, has decided what Herman Miller looks like? The shape of the answer is uneven. One design director from 1947 to 1972; thirty-four years of ergonomic R&D credited to Bill Stumpf and Don Chadwick; thirty years of a multi-studio collaborator portfolio with no central voice; and now, finally, a named creative directorate in a public furniture company that for most of its history did not believe it needed one. ...

June 8, 2026 · 13 min · 2704 words · FORMA Editorial
Lanza Atelier's A Serpentine red-brick pavilion in Kensington Gardens, 2026

Mexican Serpentine Pavilion: Escobedo 2018, Lanza 2026

Lanza Atelier’s A Serpentine, the 25th pavilion on the Serpentine South lawn and the second Mexican Serpentine Pavilion in eight years, opened 6 June 2026 and is the first London commission since Peter Zumthor’s 2011 hortus conclusus to lead with a wall rather than a roof. The arc from Frida Escobedo’s 2018 celosia courtyard to Isabel Abascal and Alessandro Arienzo’s red-brick crinkle-crankle is the entire Mexican entry in the Serpentine’s twenty-six-year ledger. Two pavilions, eight years apart, both from Mexico City, both built around perforated mass and a careful argument with the lawn — and yet they read as opposite propositions about what Mexico City exports to Kensington Gardens. ...

June 8, 2026 · 12 min · 2496 words · FORMA Editorial
BoF VOICES 2026 CEO line-up across Kering, LVMH, Levi Strauss, Tapestry and Saks Global

BoF VOICES 2026: The Five CEOs Steering Luxury

BoF VOICES 2026’s December stage at Soho Farmhouse will host five CEOs whose combined companies posted roughly €130bn in 2024 revenue — and three of them (Luca de Meo at Kering, Michelle Gass at Levi Strauss, Geoffroy van Raemdonck at Saks Global) inherited their seats within the past eighteen months as explicit turnaround leaders. The fifth, Sidney Toledano, handed his executive seat at LVMH Fashion Group to Pietro Beccari on 1 January 2026 and now appears in Oxfordshire as Special Advisor to Bernard Arnault rather than as an operator. The line-up announced for the tenth-anniversary edition of BoF VOICES 2026 — 1–4 December 2026 at Soho Farmhouse in the Oxfordshire countryside — is not a celebration of luxury at altitude. It is a panel of operators hired or repositioned to manage what comes after the 2021–2023 boom. ...

June 7, 2026 · 14 min · 2968 words · FORMA Editorial
Italian vertical forest typology: Luciano Pia's 25 Verde in Turin and Stefano Boeri's Bosco Verticale in Milan

Italian Vertical Forests Before Bosco Verticale

Luciano Pia’s 25 Verde finished in Turin in 2012, two years before Stefano Boeri cut the ribbon on Bosco Verticale on 10 October 2014—which makes the phrase Italian vertical forests a plural that Milan has spent a decade pretending is a singular. The story usually told runs in a straight line from Boeri Studio’s Porta Nuova twin towers to a global typology now imitated from Nanjing to Eindhoven. The story actually built on the ground includes a five-storey courtyard block at Via Chiabrera 25 in Turin’s San Salvario district, 80 steel columns shaped like tree trunks, and 200 living trees that were already irrigated, pruned and inhabited while the cranes were still climbing the De Castillia and Confalonieri shafts in Milan. ...

June 7, 2026 · 11 min · 2328 words · FORMA Editorial
OTB Group portfolio, from Diesel to Viktor & Rolf — Renzo Rosso's Italian luxury holding after June 2026

OTB Group Portfolio: Inside Renzo Rosso's Empire

The OTB Group portfolio acquired its final missing percentage point on 4 June 2026, when Renzo Rosso’s Breganze-based holding bought out the last 30 percent of Viktor & Rolf from Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren and consolidated the Amsterdam couture house at 100 percent ownership eighteen years after the first 51 percent acquisition in 2008. The buyout makes Rosso, who turned seventy-one in September 2026, the only Italian luxury-holding founder still personally signing acquisition papers in a market where every comparable rival — LVMH, Kering, Prada Group, Richemont — runs on salaried CEOs and treasury teams. The Diesel founder is the only principal who built the holding and is still inside it. ...

June 7, 2026 · 15 min · 3146 words · FORMA Editorial

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