Christopher Bailey's Burleigh acquisition at Middleport Pottery, Stoke-on-Trent — the latest fashion-to-craft pivot

Fashion Designers Buying Craft Houses, 2010-2026

On 9 June 2026, Christopher Bailey — the British designer who ran Burberry’s creative direction for most of the 21st century — joined a small investor group to acquire Burleigh, the 175-year-old Stoke-on-Trent pottery, from administrators. It is the latest entry in a pattern that has hardened over the last decade: fashion designers craft house acquisitions, and the adjacent moves of founding craft prizes, launching scarcity-led brands, and seeding craft foundations, have become the most legible exit path for senior creative directors leaving the runway treadmill. The line runs from Jonathan Anderson’s 2016 Loewe Craft Prize through Phoebe Philo’s October 2023 brand launch, Tilda Swinton’s Hawick-made Hades collaboration, the December 2025 announcement of the Fondazione Dries Van Noten, and now Bailey at Burleigh’s tissue-transfer kilns in Burslem. ...

June 12, 2026 · 14 min · 2848 words · FORMA Editorial
Daniel Lee's Burberry Cap d'Antibes residency at the Art Deco Hôtel Belles Rives, Juan-les-Pins, May-September 2026

Fashion Hotel Takeovers 2026: Burberry at Belles Rives

On 14 May 2026 the navy Burberry check went up on the sun loungers, parasols and deck chairs of the Hôtel Belles Rives in Juan-les-Pins, signage reading “Burberry Cap d’Antibes” screwed to the jetty, and the fashion hotel takeovers 2026 calendar acquired its loudest summer chapter. Daniel Lee, chief creative officer at Burberry since September 2022, is the named author; the Estène-Chauvin family, who have run the 43-room Art Deco hotel since Boma and Simone Estène bought Villa Saint-Louis in 1929 and opened it as Hôtel Belles Rives in 1930, are the hosts. The residency runs to 30 September 2026 and arrives in a year already crowded with houses moving into hospitality real estate: Loro Piana’s Casa Brera in Milan, Tom Dixon’s Mua Mua at Mulino Estate, Hermès at Capella Kyoto, and the Chanel Cruise show at Casino Municipal de Biarritz. The pattern is not a coincidence. ...

May 14, 2026 · 15 min · 3025 words · FORMA Editorial
Fashion-house creative-director turnarounds at Gucci, Dior, Burberry and Chanel for cruise 2026, mapped to Kering, LVMH and FTSE 100 parents.

Cruise 2026: Gucci, Dior, Burberry Turnarounds

The cruise 2026 creative director turnarounds are the season the post-Sarno, post-Kim-Jones, post-Tisci creative resets stop being announcements and start being read commercially. Demna at Gucci, Jonathan Anderson at Dior, Daniel Lee and Joshua Schulman at Burberry, and Matthieu Blazy at Chanel have between them produced the most concentrated wave of artistic-director changes the four flagship houses of European luxury have ever shared in a single calendar year — and the Q1 2026 earnings prints arrived on the same desks as the cruise images. Business of Fashion’s 10 May briefing — “Gucci, Dior, Burberry: A Tale of Three Turnarounds” — named the three explicitly. The fourth, Chanel, is private and unrated; the fifth and sixth, Balenciaga and Versace, sit inside Kering and the Prada Group; and the cohort underneath them — Sarah Burton at Givenchy, Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, Duran Lantink at Jean Paul Gaultier and Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela — extends the same logic down the holding-company chart. ...

May 11, 2026 · 17 min · 3468 words · FORMA Editorial

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