Luca de Meo at a Kering podium presenting the ReconKering portfolio refresh strategy in 2026

Kering Portfolio Refresh: Every House Under de Meo

Luca de Meo’s first eight months as Kering CEO add up to a Capital Markets Day in Florence on April 16, 2026, five different creative-director appointments inherited or made across the portfolio, a Gucci Times Square takeover that BoF on May 24, 2026 called “back under the microscope,” and a three-phase plan called ReconKering that asks investors to wait until end-2030 to see the payoff. This is a Kering portfolio refresh on a scale the group has not attempted since the disposal of the sport-and-lifestyle assets, and it lands as the Kering AGM convenes May 28, 2026 at 3 PM Paris time at 40 rue de Sèvres. The question every house faces is no longer who runs it. It is what shape it should be by the time the Lead phase opens in 2029. ...

May 27, 2026 · 14 min · 2973 words · FORMA Editorial
Matthieu Blazy backstage at the Grand Palais after his Chanel Spring/Summer 2026 ready-to-wear debut

Matthieu Blazy Career: Margiela to Chanel, 2007–2025

Matthieu Blazy’s eighteen-month walk from Bottega Veneta to Chanel produced a USD 19.3 billion house’s first “high single-digit” growth quarter — and three Margiela-Margiela-Simons stops on a single CV that Leena Nair calls “one of the most talented designers in the world.” The Matthieu Blazy career, traced strictly by appointment date, runs through six houses in nineteen years: Raf Simons’s independent label in 2007, Maison Margiela couture from 2010, Celine under Phoebe Philo from 2014, Calvin Klein 205W39NYC under Simons again from 2016, Bottega Veneta from 2020, and Chanel from December 2024. The pattern matters because almost no other working creative director has been inside that many of the houses now defining 2026 womenswear — and none of them sits, today, on Chanel’s revenue. ...

May 26, 2026 · 13 min · 2569 words · FORMA Editorial
Matthieu Blazy's Chanel cruise show on the Grande Plage at the Casino Municipal in Biarritz, April 2026 — the new artistic director's debut collection for the house.

Blazy Chanel Biarritz: A Debut, a Deed, a Lyst #1

Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel debut on the Grande Plage in Biarritz on 28 April 2026 was the first cruise show in the Lagerfeld-era format to refuse a global destination — and one week later the house entered the Lyst Index at #1, the first time in the ranking’s history Chanel had appeared on it at all. Read in isolation, the blazy chanel biarritz collection is a 79-look show staged at the 1929 Casino Municipal for two audiences totalling more than 900 guests, with Nicole Kidman in the front row and A$AP Rocky performing at the after-party. Read together with the September 2025 acquisition of 23 Rue Cambon for €118 million ($133 million) and the Q1 2026 Lyst recalibration, it is something else: the most coherent brand-strategy moment any European fashion house has produced in this cycle, and the clearest argument yet that Chanel — privately held, debt-free, and unconstrained by the quarterly drumbeat that governs LVMH and Kering — intends to spend the next decade behaving differently from the conglomerates around it. ...

May 10, 2026 · 16 min · 3364 words · FORMA Editorial
Demna Gvasalia at Gucci Memoria, Basilica di San Simpliciano, and Matthieu Blazy's Bottega Veneta Casa, Via San Maurilio 14, Milan

Kering at Milan Design Week 2026

Kering at Milan Design Week 2026 let its two flagship Italian houses anchor opposite ends of the city in the same week of April — Gucci inside the 4th-century Basilica di San Simpliciano in Brera, Bottega Veneta in a permanent ground-floor gallery at Via San Maurilio 14 in 5Vie — and made no public statement connecting the two. Demna Gvasalia’s Memoria for Gucci and Matthieu Blazy’s Casa for Bottega Veneta opened within walking distance of each other during Milan Design Week 2026, and they were the most considered fashion-into-design statements the week produced. The fact that they came from the same holding company, presented as if they did not, is the story. ...

April 28, 2026 · 13 min · 2624 words · FORMA Editorial
Bottega Veneta Casa home collection 2026

Bottega Veneta Casa: The Quietest Launch of the Week

Most fashion houses, when they enter a new category, announce themselves loudly. There is a press event, a celebrity ambassador, a dinner of 200, a press release that uses the words “vision” and “universe” with abandon. The point of the announcement is to be the announcement. Bottega Veneta did none of this. The house’s first home collection, Casa, opened in a single ground-floor space on Via San Maurilio during the final weekend of Milan Design Week, with no press event, no opening party, and no advance preview. The press materials arrived by post — physical, on heavy stock, no PDFs. This is, of course, its own kind of announcement. But the restraint is consistent with everything Bottega Veneta has done since Matthieu Blazy assumed creative direction in 2021, and the collection rewards close attention. ...

April 25, 2026 · 10 min · 2016 words · FORMA Editorial

Stay in the loop

New posts, occasionally. No spam.