Pucci's Capri-aimed printed silk and Loro Piana cashmere as the two ends of LVMH's small-brand revival playbook 2020-2026

LVMH Small Brand Revivals: Pucci to Loro Piana

When LVMH put Camille Miceli into the artistic director seat at Pucci on 1 September 2021, three months after taking the house to 100% ownership, it ignored the conventional luxury wisdom about reviving a small brand: the appointment was a twenty-four-year accessories insider — Chanel PR, Louis Vuitton costume jewellery, Dior fine jewellery, Vuitton accessories — for a Florentine house no celebrity creative director had managed to fix in two decades. That single hire is the cleanest single-line statement of the lvmh small brand revivals playbook between 2020 and 2026: at the level of Pucci, Loro Piana, Nina Ricci, Berluti and the long Fendi-second-line, the group does not buy outside celebrity; it promotes from within, often from the accessories or operating side, on the bet that someone who already knows the machine will outrun anyone who has to learn it. ...

June 13, 2026 · 13 min · 2583 words · FORMA Editorial
BoF VOICES 2026 CEO line-up across Kering, LVMH, Levi Strauss, Tapestry and Saks Global

BoF VOICES 2026: The Five CEOs Steering Luxury

BoF VOICES 2026’s December stage at Soho Farmhouse will host five CEOs whose combined companies posted roughly €130bn in 2024 revenue — and three of them (Luca de Meo at Kering, Michelle Gass at Levi Strauss, Geoffroy van Raemdonck at Saks Global) inherited their seats within the past eighteen months as explicit turnaround leaders. The fifth, Sidney Toledano, handed his executive seat at LVMH Fashion Group to Pietro Beccari on 1 January 2026 and now appears in Oxfordshire as Special Advisor to Bernard Arnault rather than as an operator. The line-up announced for the tenth-anniversary edition of BoF VOICES 2026 — 1–4 December 2026 at Soho Farmhouse in the Oxfordshire countryside — is not a celebration of luxury at altitude. It is a panel of operators hired or repositioned to manage what comes after the 2021–2023 boom. ...

June 7, 2026 · 14 min · 2968 words · FORMA Editorial
Givenchy haute couture lineage 1952–2026, from Hubert de Givenchy through Sarah Burton in Paris

Givenchy Creative Directors, 1952–2026

Marco De Vincenzo’s appointment as head of leather goods design on 26 May 2026 makes Sarah Burton the first Givenchy creative director since Riccardo Tisci to share authority over the house’s most commercial category — and reopens the question of what continuity at Givenchy has ever actually meant. The list of Givenchy creative directors since the house opened in February 1952 is short and uneven: Hubert de Givenchy himself for 43 years, then six successors in 31 years under LVMH. Read end-to-end, from the founder’s Bettina blouse through John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Julien Macdonald, Tisci, Clare Waight Keller, Matthew M. Williams and now Burton, the house’s design lineage looks less like a single thread and more like a sequence of complete brand reinventions, each one priced against the next. ...

June 4, 2026 · 17 min · 3478 words · FORMA Editorial
Sarah Burton at Givenchy and Marco De Vincenzo's leather goods debut, LVMH Paris May 2026

LVMH Leather Goods 2026: Every House, Every Lead

Marco De Vincenzo’s 27 May 2026 appointment to Givenchy as Head of Leather Goods Design completes an eighteen-month restructure that has put designer-led leather goods leadership in place at every commercially significant LVMH house except Berluti. The question this piece answers — every LVMH house with a dedicated leather goods design lead in 2025–2026, and where each designer came from — turns out to map almost perfectly onto the group’s wider talent rotation since Jonathan Anderson left Loewe in March 2025. Eight houses, eight different reporting structures, one consistent decision: at the houses where the bag drives the P&L, the bag now has its own author. ...

May 29, 2026 · 13 min · 2687 words · FORMA Editorial
Giambattista Valli at his Paris haute couture atelier on Avenue Montaigne after the May 2026 Artémis buyback

Giambattista Valli Buyback from Artémis: 2026

The giambattista valli buyback from Artémis, announced by Business of Fashion in May 2026, is the second time in eight years that a Paris fashion house has undone a Pinault-family bet — the first was Stella McCartney rolling back the 2001 Kering joint venture in March 2018. Valli’s reacquisition of his namesake house, Giambattista Valli SAS, from the holding company chaired by François-Henri Pinault closes a nine-year minority-to-majority arc that began with a 2017 stake and a 2021 control move. It is a small deal by Kering or LVMH standards, but it is the second clean unwinding of a founder-house from Artémis since the Stella McCartney departure, and it arrives during the most aggressive founder-buyback cycle in three decades. ...

May 28, 2026 · 12 min · 2483 words · FORMA Editorial
Giambattista Valli's Paris atelier with a draped couture muslin on the mannequin in the foreground

Designer Buyback Playbook: Valli, McCartney, Philo, 2018–2026

Giambattista Valli’s 20 May 2026 designer buyback from Artémis is the third clean designer reclamation since 2018 — and the first to expose how loud the difference is between a family holding (Pinault’s Artémis) and a listed luxury group (Pinault’s Kering). The three cases that actually qualify — Valli in May 2026, Stella McCartney twice (March 2018 from Kering, January 2025 from LVMH), and Phoebe Philo as a permanent founder-majority structure since October 2023 — do not form a wave. They form a small, specific pattern that gets misread every time a designer leaves a group. ...

May 26, 2026 · 13 min · 2584 words · FORMA Editorial
Jonathan Anderson trajectory from Loewe to Dior across LVMH, 2013–2025.

Jonathan Anderson at LVMH: Loewe to Dior, 2013–2025

Jonathan Anderson is the first designer since Christian Dior himself, in 1946, to oversee Dior womenswear, menswear and haute couture from one office. The jonathan anderson lvmh trajectory — from the September 2013 deal that made him Loewe creative director and gave LVMH a minority stake in his independent JW Anderson label, to the April–June 2025 Dior appointments that consolidated three creative directorships under his name — is the most aggressive single-designer bet the group has placed in a generation. It runs across two brands (Loewe and Dior), one foundation prize, one curated museum show, and roughly twelve years. ...

May 25, 2026 · 13 min · 2653 words · FORMA Editorial
Lotus L. Kang's The Face of Desire Is Loss at Spazio Esedra in the Giardini and Lara Favaretto's Momentary Monument – The Library at the Biblioteca Marciana, both produced for Biennale Arte 2026 under Bvlgari's 2026–2030 exclusive partnership with La Biennale di Venezia.

Bvlgari Venice Biennale Partnership 2026–2030

For the first time in La Biennale di Venezia’s 130-year history, the institution has named an Exclusive Partner — Bvlgari, on a 2026–2030 contract that spans three editions of the Art Biennale and anchors a purpose-built Spazio Esedra pavilion in the Giardini and a Fondazione Bvlgari collateral show in the Marciana’s Salone Sansovino. This is what the Bvlgari Venice Biennale partnership actually is: not a sponsorship line in a catalogue, but a title invented for the occasion, written into the institution’s architecture of patronage so that the LVMH-owned Roman jeweller occupies a tier above every other corporate name attached to the 61st International Art Exhibition. No monetary figure has been disclosed, and we are not going to invent one. ...

May 19, 2026 · 14 min · 2796 words · FORMA Editorial
LVMH brand portfolio shift with the Marc Jacobs Manhattan flagship marking the end of the Bernard Arnault ownership era

LVMH Divestitures: Marc Jacobs to WHP and G-III

On 14 May 2026, LVMH sold Marc Jacobs to an $850M joint venture between WHP Global and G-III Apparel Group, ending a 29-year ownership that began the same year Marc Jacobs was named creative director of Louis Vuitton. The deal closes a chapter of LVMH divestitures that has, since 2020, quietly reshaped the group around three categories — leather goods, jewellery, wines and spirits — while pushing American designer brands, English shirtmakers, and minority creative-founder stakes out of the portfolio. The story is not the Marc Jacobs sale on its own. The story is the pattern: LVMH bought Tiffany, backed Phoebe Philo, and lined itself up for Giorgio Armani while shedding Off-White, Thomas Pink, Stella McCartney, and now Marc Jacobs in roughly eighteen months. ...

May 16, 2026 · 15 min · 3163 words · FORMA Editorial
Giorgio Armani SpA boardroom in Milan as the Foundation prepares the 15% stake sale to LVMH, L'Oréal or EssilorLuxottica.

Armani Stake 2026: LVMH, L'Oréal, EssilorLuxottica

Armani’s 15% stake is the largest contested block of independent Italian luxury since LVMH bought Fendi in 2003, and three luxury suitors are now in the room: LVMH, L’Oréal and EssilorLuxottica. Business of Fashion reported on 10 May 2026 that Giorgio Armani Group CEO Giuseppe Marsocci is preparing to appoint two financial advisers to run the sale of an initial 15% stake to a preferred luxury group within 18 months, the window written into Giorgio Armani’s own succession plan before his death on 4 September 2025. The buyer of that first 15% has an option to take its position up to 54.9% over three to five years. The Giorgio Armani Foundation, the founder’s instrument of control, retains at least 30% indefinitely. Those are the numbers that shape every move the three named suitors are about to make. ...

May 11, 2026 · 15 min · 3189 words · FORMA Editorial
Matthieu Blazy's Chanel cruise show on the Grande Plage at the Casino Municipal in Biarritz, April 2026 — the new artistic director's debut collection for the house.

Blazy Chanel Biarritz: A Debut, a Deed, a Lyst #1

Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel debut on the Grande Plage in Biarritz on 28 April 2026 was the first cruise show in the Lagerfeld-era format to refuse a global destination — and one week later the house entered the Lyst Index at #1, the first time in the ranking’s history Chanel had appeared on it at all. Read in isolation, the blazy chanel biarritz collection is a 79-look show staged at the 1929 Casino Municipal for two audiences totalling more than 900 guests, with Nicole Kidman in the front row and A$AP Rocky performing at the after-party. Read together with the September 2025 acquisition of 23 Rue Cambon for €118 million ($133 million) and the Q1 2026 Lyst recalibration, it is something else: the most coherent brand-strategy moment any European fashion house has produced in this cycle, and the clearest argument yet that Chanel — privately held, debt-free, and unconstrained by the quarterly drumbeat that governs LVMH and Kering — intends to spend the next decade behaving differently from the conglomerates around it. ...

May 10, 2026 · 16 min · 3364 words · FORMA Editorial
Loro Piana's Casa Brera townhouse on Via Solferino 11, Milan, the four-floor cultural address that anchors Frédéric Arnault's first year as CEO

Frédéric Arnault and Loro Piana's First Year

When Frédéric Arnault walked into Loro Piana on 1 June 2025, he inherited a 101-year-old cashmere house that had — three months earlier — already committed to opening a four-floor 19th-century townhouse on Via Solferino in Milan as its cultural and commercial centre of gravity. The appointment was announced on 13 March 2025; the maison he took over was no longer the discreet Quarona-born fibre supplier his father Bernard Arnault had bought a controlling stake in for roughly $2.6 billion in July 2013. Under Damien Bertrand’s four years as CEO and Antoine Arnault’s continuing chairmanship, Loro Piana had been pushed — quietly, methodically — out of the wool sheds and into the rooms where furniture, ceramics and curated mid-century objects sit alongside double-ply cashmere. By the time Casa Brera opened during Milan Design Week 2026, the question facing the youngest of LVMH’s heirs was no longer whether Loro Piana could become a fashion-into-design house. It was whether a 31-year-old engineer who had run watches for five years could hold that pivot together while his father’s group posted a -2% organic quarter in Fashion & Leather Goods. ...

May 5, 2026 · 16 min · 3248 words · FORMA Editorial
LVMH, Kering and Hermès Q1 2026 results card juxtaposed with Gucci Memoria, Bottega Veneta Casa and Loro Piana Casa Brera Milan Design Week 2026 openings

Luxury Q1 2026 Design Spend vs. the Numbers

In the same fortnight that LVMH reported +1% organic growth on €19.1 billion of Q1 2026 revenue, Kering disclosed a -14.3% reported collapse at Gucci, and Hermès shares fell roughly 13% in a single session on 15 April 2026, every one of those houses opened a new furniture, residence or hospitality programme inside Milan Design Week 2026. That contradiction — luxury Q1 2026 design spend rising while quarterly numbers softened — is the question that walked the streets of Brera, Montenapoleone and Corso Venezia between 20 and 26 April. The answer is not denial. It is a deliberate, coordinated rotation: groups including LVMH, Kering, Hermès, Prada Group and OTB are buying long-duration assets — palazzi, foundries, café residencies, twelve-object capsules — at the precise moment that the four-collections-a-year fashion cycle has stopped clearing inventory the way it did in 2021–2023. ...

April 30, 2026 · 16 min · 3269 words · FORMA Editorial

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